$$$$Preis: Moderat • Tex-Mex • The Colony
The menu is a pull-out-all-the-stops fireworks display with multiple finales. How about five different styles of quesadillas? Birria tacos? Yes!There is a cheeseburger, topped with crispy, onions, and Texas Queso. Here’s the thing: None of it is gimmicky. Hernandez’ food is big and fun, buzzing with flavors from home. The star dishes shout back to the street cart food of his youth.A mini trompo for the table, a marvelous vortex of blistered pastor, edges angrily charred, is carved into crackly bits right in front of you. The layers of pork that have been long bathed with vinegar, orange juice, and peppery achiote. Fresh tortillas, cilantro, and onions are at the ready. It’s presented on a rotisserie cooker that Hernandez had made back home, in Guadalajara. Queso fundido, stretchy cheese gone molten in a cast iron pan along with grilled poblanos and heaped into a stack of tortillas, is another jewel.These are just a few of the offerings made from scratch daily.
